Settled within the Queen Victoria Hotel in Cape Town’s vibrant Waterfront, Terrarium is a crowning jewel in the Newmark Hotel Group’s collection. Helmed by acclaimed chef Chris Erasmus, this intimate dining destination seamlessly blends luxury with a deep appreciation for local flavours and artistry.
As with all Newmark properties, opulence greets you at the entrance. Black granite floors gleam beneath the soft glow of crystal chandeliers, leading the way to an inviting space that exudes warmth and sophistication. Inside, Terrarium’s interior reflects its name—earthy tones, dark wood furnishings, and carefully curated local artwork create an atmosphere refined and deeply rooted in its South African heritage. Yet, the most striking feature might just be the view—a breathtaking panorama of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, where the city meets the sea in an ever-changing canvas of colours.
Upon being seated, our server, Tino, introduced us to the restaurant’s philosophy. Terrarium is a celebration of South African produce, designed to let natural flavours shine while paying homage to the country’s exceptional wine culture. The 8-course menu is presented in an innovative way: housed in a sheath of bamboo and a carved bone, diners are offered a choice—Flora (R795 p/p without wine pairing, R1 495 with pairing) or Fauna (R1 095 without pairing, R1 795 with pairing)—each representing a distinct culinary journey through the region’s ingredients and traditions.
As we perused the drinks menu, it became clear that Terrarium’s dedication to local flavours extends to its cocktails. Their list of signature drinks was enticing, but I ultimately settled on the Spiced Flora, a bold yet balanced blend of Disaronno, grapefruit, chilli, rosemary, anise, and Angostura bitters—a drink that encapsulated the restaurant’s ethos of complexity, contrast, and harmony.
The Fauna and Flora menus at Terrarium are thoughtfully curated, with each dish expertly paired with a magnum of local wine. Both my companion and I opted for the Fauna menu. Being a pescatarian, my companion appreciated the chefs’ flexibility in substituting meat dishes with their Flora counterparts.
Our culinary journey commenced with West Coast oysters adorned with crispy kale and accompanied by a hake roe “toast.” This was presented alongside a bread course featuring homemade sourdough. I was given a rich and unctuous whipped bone marrow butter, complementing the creamy oyster, enhanced by a light pickle juice mignonette. My companion savoured a decadent mushroom butter paired with crispy artichoke hearts. This delightful introduction was paired with Domaine des Dieux Claudia Brut, a Cap Classique sparkling wine crafted from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine’s apple notes mingled with a hint of perfumed red berries harmonising beautifully with the oysters and accompaniments.
The subsequent course, aptly named Tomato, featured a tomato tartare accompanied by peach atchar, whey vinaigrette, and chilli oil. This dish was a remarkable celebration of the tomato, perhaps the finest presentation I’ve ever encountered. It was paired with a glass of Delaire Graff Rosé, whose crisp acidity and subtle fruitiness complemented the tartare’s vibrant flavours.
Next, we enjoyed a yellowfin tuna ceviche served with bonito emulsion, herbed tom yum, and daikon radish. This light and delicate dish tantalised our palates, with each flavour standing on its own while harmoniously complementing the others. The accompanying Remhoogte Honeybunch Chenin Blanc offered lime peel and wood smoke notes, enhancing the ceviche’s nuanced flavours.
Craving another cocktail, I opted for the Terrarium Smash, crafted with Six Dogs Karoo gin, lime, and terrarium honeybush. Possibly the most refreshing cocktail I’ve had this year, it was zesty and citrusy, with a mild sweetness from the honeybush.
The following course showcased delightful creativity: a chargrilled piece of kingklip, glazed in fermented blueberry, served with sweetcorn velouté and a robust XO sauce that left us savouring every bite. This was paired with a glass of Neethlingshof Owl Post Pinotage, whose rich, dark fruit flavours and subtle smokiness complemented the dish’s savoury and sweet elements.
The final savoury course was tailored to our preferences. I enjoyed slow-cooked brisket with thyme-infused pomme purée, burnt shallot, bone broth, and delectable crispy sweetbreads—a true testament to the chef’s prowess. My companion delighted in tender stem broccoli, charred cauliflower parfait, sprouts, and a watermelon BBQ sauce. Both dishes were accompanied by a glass of Vilafonté Seriously Old Dirt Red Blend, whose complex layers of dark berries, cocoa, and subtle spice beautifully complemented both the beef and the vegetable-centric dish.
Transitioning to the cheese course, we were presented with a savoury oak-smoked cheesecake, mellow in flavour and served with a tomato chutney and sunflower salad. The harmonious blend of nuttiness and vibrancy from the chutney and sunflower complemented the light, smoky essence of the cheesecake.
Concluding our meal, the dessert featured rose geranium, honey iced nougatine, cocoa custard, and crunchy honeycomb. Delightfully complex yet light and fruity, it evoked a sense of nostalgia. This was paired with a glass of Dan Wijn Fortified, whose rich, sweet profile rounded out the dessert’s flavours.
Throughout the evening, the seamless integration of local produce, innovative culinary techniques, and thoughtfully selected wine pairings made for an unforgettable dining experience at Terrarium.
As the evening drew to a close, it became clear that Terrarium isn’t just a meal—it’s a destination. This unique dining experience captures the essence of Cape Town, weaving together the city’s vibrant culture, breathtaking views, and exceptional local produce into every dish. Whether you’re a culinary enthusiast or a traveller seeking an unforgettable dining experience, Terrarium promises a journey through South Africa’s rich flavours in a setting that showcases the very best of the Waterfront. Terrarium stands as a must-visit jewel in the heart of Cape Town’s dining scene.