After nearly a decade at the High Constantia Centre, Foxcroft has moved up the hill to the historic Constantia Nek building, opening a companion restaurant right next door.
Foxcroft has long been known for its contemporary food ethos, as expected from a branch of the La Colombe Restaurant Group, and that has not changed. Now, Foxcroft leans further into its refined tasting menu, earning the recognition it deserves.
But what about the beloved Small-Plate Sundays? Have they disappeared? Not quite. Enter Little Fox, a playful small-plate à la carte restaurant in the same building, yet entirely its own space. Light, easy-going and designed purely for enjoyment.
Little Fox uses the same world-class ingredients, with the chefs working as one Foxcroft and Little Fox team behind the scenes. The difference lies in the tone. It is more relaxed and accessible. Dress up or down, t-shirts and hoodies are welcome. It captures the laid-back energy Foxcroft Sundays became known for and builds an entire restaurant around it, distilling comfort before delivering some of the most elegantly executed dishes you will find in the Mother City.
It is no surprise that Foxcroft has consistently earned two stars at the Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards, placing it among the country’s leading dining destinations.
On a wonderfully rainy Friday, my companion and I ventured up to Constantia Nek with high hopes, spoiler: those hopes were exceeded. After stepping out of the cool weather, we received a friendly greeting, were shown to a small table, and given menus to peruse.
Normally, we do a bit of research before visiting a restaurant and arrive with a clear idea of what we want. This time our “research” was more of a social media crawl, and that was good enough for me to order the Saldanha Bay oysters with nahm jim jaew dressing, a portion of wagyu-fat fries with green peppercorn emulsion and the potato and rosemary bread served with butter and confit garlic. Normally, it comes with roast chicken butter, but the team at Little Fox is more than accommodating for pescatarians and picky eaters alike.
The oysters were amazing, slightly spicy and herbaceous, balancing the creamy sweetness of the fresh oysters beautifully. They really woke up the palate. Like a kick to the taste buds, but in the best way.
The wagyu-fat fries were in fact wagyu-fat pommes pavé, a classic French preparation often referred to as 15-hour potatoes. Paired with the green peppercorn emulsion, the result is exceptional. The crunch is remarkable and the delicate peppery heat cuts neatly through the richness.
Warm bread on a cold day is like me and cocktails, they just go together. And the confit garlic is, in this case, quite literally a chef’s kiss. The addition of potato to the dough makes it incredibly light and fluffy, and the rosemary is just perfect.
Speaking of me and cocktails, to start with, I ordered a “Smokey Cokey”, made with Laphroaig 10 Year Old and Coca-Cola. I’m quite sure some of you are reading those words with shock and despair, while others are wondering why you’ve never tried it before. I’m sure there are as many opinions as there are people tasting it. I will say that there’s something magical about the smoky notes of Laphroaig paired with the sweet, zesty notes of Coke. Good or bad, innovation comes through creativity, and while it’s a simple cocktail, it’s innovative in its own right.
After our snacks, we selected a few small plates to try. My pescatarian companion went for the spicy Thai mussels and charcoal-grilled prawns, while I opted for the wagyu flat-iron steak and pork belly.
The prawns and pork belly were first to hit the table.
Coal-fired prawns served with peri-peri, cashew crumb, charred salsa verde and smoked garlic. Just enough smoke and just enough heat from the spice to send those sweet prawns to the next level.
The pork belly? Served with crackling and kimchi jjigae. Fantastic, soft, beautifully cooked, and packed with spice and umami from the kimchi. Another winning combination.
Next up on the cocktail front was something a little more adventurous, an Old Plantation: Envy Gold Rum, banana vermouth, caramel and lime. Very complex and very moreish for those who enjoy fruity depth.
Then came our mussels and flat-iron steak.
West Coast mussels with nahm prik pla dressing served alongside sticky rice. Wonderfully warming, with just enough heat to chase the cold out of you. The mussels were plump and sweet, and the rice soaked up that cooking liquor perfectly.
The wagyu flat-iron steak arrived over a mushroom ragout and was accompanied by a sauce Diane, genuinely a reimagined classic. Perfectly cooked and expertly seasoned.
We wrapped things up with dessert. One of each option.
An ice-cream sandwich made with Nyangbo 68% chocolate cookies, a sesame parfait and dipped in blood-orange marmalade. It transforms a beloved childhood classic into something refined and complex.
Then a bergamot posset served with poached rhubarb, strawberries and elderflower, a light, fruit-centred dessert, again just as refined and elevated as everything we’d tried before.
It was a fantastic way to end the week and certainly the first of many visits to come.
In their new location, shoulder to shoulder, both Foxcroft and Little Fox will see many faces pass through their doors, as is always the case with restaurants located at such a central crossroads. But I would wager the staff will come to know a great many of those faces by name.
It really is the kind of place you want to return to again and again.
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 12:00 – 14:30 (lunch) and 18:00 – 21:00 (dinner)
www.lacolombe.restaurant/little-fox
Photos: Jan Ras Photography