When you realise that the usual impressions of the Balearic Islands as a cheap-and-cheerful party destination couldn’t be further from the truth, an enticing invitation to fall in love with these dreamy Spanish Islands awaits. On a recent visit to Barcelona, Mallorca was a short 50-minute flight away, so I had no excuse not to flip over to discover the island’s Mediterranean magic.
My love affair with Palma, a resort city and capital of Mallorca, began with winding strolls through the cobblestoned streets and classy gabled courtyards of the island’s biggest city. With all the feel of Barcelona but on a more intimate level and at a slower pace, the mix of Gothic, Modern, and Nouveau architecture is enchanting. Some of Gaudi, a well-known Spanish architect and designer, and his younger apprentices’ influence are still to be found, and the impressive Can Casasayas & Pensión Menorquina buildings, along with the Gran Hotel (Fundacio la Caixa) proudly holds their place in any Google favourites list.
The Palace and Cathedral are impressive 12th-century buildings worth admiring. As a treat after all the walking, indulge in a little decadence at Cappuccino, the swanky (and oh-so-Instagrammable) café adjacent to the Palace.
Hearing about a century-old train running daily between Palma and the town of Soller (tucked in the Tramuntana Mountains and a World Heritage Site), I quickly added the railway experience to our itinerary. A return trip can be taken in either direction, allowing enough time to explore your chosen destination. Journeys last around an hour and cost €27 return. A little insider tip: the front carriage has an open section with wooden benches and a closed carriage with leather recliners – these are available on a first-come-first-serve basis on the same ticket fare. Simply wait at the very front of the train and try to board first to claim one of these coveted spots.
Moving North, nestled in the northern foothills of the Tramuntana Mountains, the town of Pollenca feels somewhat removed from the rest of the island. In the village, I began exploring the church of Santa Maria, where in Gaudi-esque styling, the sun threw a kaleidoscope display of colours over the sanctuary. Next was the’ 365 Calvari steps’ up to the elevated chapel, which proudly looks out over the landscape (do also enjoy the viewpoint just off to the right of the chapel entrance).
Once you’ve walked back down, the affordable €3.50 ham and cheese croissants from the unassuming Ca’n Moixet are tasty rewards for any calories spent. While in town, the local textile producer Teixits Vicens offers tempting shopping (think of it as the Mallorcan version of South Africa’s Mungo).
Pollenca has an eponymous coastal enclave (Puerto Pollenca), which serves as the gateway to Mallorca’s Northern Formentor Peninsula. The drive to Formentor Beach is an experience in itself, winding along dramatic passes that give glimpses of hidden coves and the azure waters below. Adjacent to the beach, you can’t help but notice the large hotel. Preface your visit by watching Netflix’s “Formentor, the Sea of Words,” which is a fascinating look at the hotel’s history and the region. You’ll likely be impressed by the lineage of legendary guests who’ve frequented the hotel, which has recently been purchased by Four Seasons and has a much-anticipated 2024 launch.
A staycation at the five-star Son Brull Hotel & Spa was in order to revel in some of Mallorca’s luxury hospitality offerings. Mere minutes outside Pollenca, with its renovated 18th-century monastery home, this rural retreat has been a luxury hotel for just over twenty years. Now a proud member of Relais Chateaux, it is passionately run by the devoted 2, whose ethos is proudly Mallorcan.
Their hyper-local focus on the region was beautifully evident throughout. From the items on offer in their store to the décor and styling. With an emphasis on local ingredients, the breakfast menu’s enticing ‘Full Mallorcan’ included more than one local sausage, and even the French toast had its local stamp with ensaïmada (the island’s famous sweet pastry), replacing the usual bread component. Honey and fruit from the garden were in abundant supply, and since this is Spain, yes, oranges aplenty. For a fine dining affair, Restaurant 365 is open every evening (incidentally named after the fact that at the time of renovation, the monastery building had exactly 365 doors and windows).
The small collection of stylish rooms is arranged around a central courtyard—all connected to the restaurant, café, spa, and pool. Four secluded family villas with splash pools are tucked away in the property gardens. They were designed by celebrated Catalan architect Carme Pinós, winner of the Essentially Mallorca Prize 2022 and the Spanish National Prize of Architecture 2021—the country’s most respected architectural accolades.
Miquel Suau shared some insights with me about the growth of luxury tourism on the island, along with Mallorca’s changing global perceptions: “In recent years, there have been several changes in the sector, including a noticeable shift to luxury tourism, evidenced by the increase of luxury tourists and growth in the number of high-end hotels and restaurants. There is also a growing awareness of the environmental impact of tourism, and Mallorca is taking steps to become more sustainable. The sector is constantly evolving, and we’re interested to see how it continues to change in the years to come.”
This shift was tangible, and while parts of the island may still be host to party culture, a smart emphasis on luxury offerings quickly shows that the island has much more to offer to the discerning traveller.
