Acclaimed chef Ryan Cole’s latest venture has opened its doors at the prime V&A Waterfront location. With head chefs Geoffrey Abrahams and Teenola Govender, Chef Ryan brings you COY, a stunning new restaurant set in a standalone building between the Bascule Bridge and the Robinson Dry Dock. Perched on the edge of the water, COY offers breathtaking views of the luxurious marina, with its grand yachts on one side and the bustling harbour, alive with working fishing boats, on the other. Against this dynamic backdrop, Table Mountain rises majestically, completing the picture of one of Cape Town’s most exciting new dining destinations.
When my dining partner and I arrived at COY, we were warmly welcomed to an elegant African-inspired restaurant overlooking the water. Despite being about 30 minutes early, we were seated immediately, and throughout the evening, the staff’s attentive, friendly, and knowledgeable service enhanced our entire experience. The restaurant’s ambience was exactly as enchanting as the photos promised, if not more. With stunning décor, music that complemented the African theme, and a sophisticated yet lively atmosphere, every detail set the stage for a memorable meal.
To start the evening, I sampled a few cocktails from COY’s creative menu, each with its own unique twist. First, I tried the Spicy Margarita, an adventurous take on the classic with a hit of jalapeño chilli that brought an incredible depth to the flavour. It was refreshingly bold, delivering just the right amount of spice without overpowering the drink—a must-try for anyone who enjoys a cocktail with uber character. Later, I enjoyed the Vanilla Negroni, a subtle twist on the beloved classic, where the addition of vanilla softened the bitterness just enough to create an entirely new, memorable version. Both drinks were excellent preludes, setting a high standard for the rest of the evening.
Our first course, a snack course, did not disappoint. It began with a shiitake mushroom purée that packed a punch of umami and earthy notes, balanced by sweet, roasted red peppers. This dish set the tone, awakening our palates and piquing our curiosity. We were also served maize chips dusted with spices and a delicious red lentil crisp accompanied by homemade chutney. The chutney, bursting with flavour, captured our full attention and left us wanting more. It was a beautifully orchestrated course, with textures and flavours that worked in perfect harmony.
Then came the bread course, which was as comforting as it was innovative. Freshly baked buns, still steaming from the oven, were topped with a hint of bokkoms that introduced a surprising yet welcome saltiness. Paired with kefir butter and homemade guava jam, this course struck a nostalgic chord. It felt as though I was tasting something that blended the familiar with the new, perfectly balancing innovation with comfort. The flavours were layered in a way that made each bite different from the last, adding an almost poetic rhythm to the course.
For the cold appetizers, my pescatarian dining partner opted for the Tuna Tartare, a dish that was as visually stunning as it was delicious. The citrus accents elevated the tuna’s natural flavours, adding a burst of brightness that perfectly complemented the fish’s freshness. It was a delicate, well-balanced dish that spoke to the chef’s skill and attention to detail. I, on the other hand, chose the Venison with sour fig and pickled pear. The Venison was tender, seared lightly, and melted in my mouth. The sour fig and pear brought a sweet acidity that brightened the rich meat, creating a flavour profile that was exciting—a definite highlight of the evening.
Moving to the hot starters, my partner’s choice was the Xai-Xai Style Chargrilled Squid. Served with pearl barley and a touch of rum in the sauce, the squid was perfectly charred, firm yet tender, with spices that danced on the palate. It was a dish that brought out the seafood’s natural flavours while introducing subtle, complex notes from the spices and sauce. I went with the Linefish, served with cabbage and Black Forest ham. The dish was unctuous and rich, with a meaty flavour that felt almost indulgent. The Black Forest ham enhanced the fish’s flavours with its smoky undertone. The spicy chimichurri cut through the richness beautifully, adding freshness to the dish and enhancing the overall harmony of flavours. Every element was thoughtfully crafted, and the perfectly seared, crispy skin on the fish was the icing on the cake.
Our main courses maintained the standard of excellence set by the previous dishes. We shared a linefish done on the braai, accompanied by mussels, askoek (a type of bread), and peri-peri sauce. The braai-grilled fish was cooked to perfection, with flaky, tender flesh that absorbed the subtle smokiness from the grill. The peri-peri sauce added a touch of heat that balanced the dish, and the askoek was ideal for mopping up every last bit of sauce. With its rich flavours and vibrant colours, this dish was satisfying to the last bite.
However, my personal highlight was the lamb. It was served with possibly the best pap I’ve ever had—smooth, cheesy, and incredibly comforting. The dish brought memories of familiar braai flavours while elevating them to a new level. The lamb itself was juicy and tender, bursting with flavour, and it was accompanied by a small potjie pot with lamb neck that was so tender it practically shredded itself onto my fork. The richness of the lamb and the nostalgic flavours made this dish a standout for me, providing a taste experience that was at once familiar and profoundly sophisticated.
The transition from savoury to sweet was marked by ‘Tea with Ma’, a delicate course that showcased flavours reminiscent of childhood memories. It felt like a gentle homage to comforting, familiar tastes of lemon cream, strawberry jam and Ceylon tea accompanied by a spiced madeleine; it prepared our palates for the desserts to follow. The simplicity and elegance of this course left a lasting impression, a quiet interlude in an otherwise bold and vibrant meal.
We had two options for dessert, and naturally, we tried both. First was a Banana Crème paired with malt ice cream, with a hint of milk stout to balance the sweetness. The banana crème was velvety and rich, with the malt ice cream adding a depth of flavour that was simply remarkable. This dessert was, without question, one of the best we’ve tasted all year—a perfect blend of sweetness, creaminess, and complexity. Our second dessert was a Cheese Board, featuring a variety of cheeses that ranged from mild to bold, served with sweet fruits that enhanced the flavours of the cheeses. It was a satisfying end to the meal, leaving us fully content and reflective.
We concluded with coffee, taking time to savour the last moments of this exceptional dining experience. Reflecting on the evening, I found it difficult to find any meaningful flaws.
COY captures the essence of African flavours and presents them with both innovation and respect, creating an authentic and unforgettable dining experience. For anyone seeking a taste of African culture elevated to fine dining, COY is a wholehearted 10/10 recommendation from us.
IMAGES: JAN-RAS-PHOTOGRAPHY