The tradition began 12 years ago when I moved to the Cape, and my parents visited for my first birthday after relocating. None of us had been to the region before, and we set off without knowing what to expect…
The West Coast is a uniquely quieter yet somewhat wilder stretch of coastline compared to others. The Atlantic meets the land and gently licks at the edges of the fynbos and stranded belts. Despite its appearance of bareness, it is very much alive, just at a desirably slower pace.
Sunbirds flit in and out of the bushes, maritime birds flock between the estuaries and vleis, dolphins cruise the turquoise waves, padstals offer local treats, and West Coast locals provide warm yet laid-back hospitality. The experience was gentle, restorative, and memorable. So much so that for 12 years, I’ve returned to celebrate my birthday on the West Coast. Below, I share two of my favourite spots, both visited multiple times over the years.
Dune Rose, Yzerfontein
Barely an hour’s drive from Cape Town, Yzerfontein is one of the larger West Coast towns and has spread its wings along the coast in recent years. A string of posh homes is tucked away in the dunes at the quieter end of town. Dune Rose is one, aptly named after the Asian flowers that adorn the dunes. At this enviable location, my friends and I gathered for a weekend of celebrations.
While I’d usually introduce ‘beautiful homes with stunning master bedrooms,’ Dune Rose feels like a ‘stunning master bedroom, within a beautiful house’—by far the most spacious principal bedroom I’ve ever stayed in. Almost completely surrounded by glass, the ocean and sunsets serve as the continuous backdrop.
A décor of wood and stone in a warm colour palette creates an almost zen-like ambience throughout. Along with the master bedroom, the home offers three additional en-suite rooms—all leading to the voluminous central living space. For soaking up the sunshine, the back deck features a pool set in a lush garden, while the ocean side of the villa boasts a large deck, a braai, and a dining area overlooking the ocean.
From the verandas, a rocky outcrop is easily seen on the southern end of the beach. Hidden among the rocks is my favourite tidal pool in South Africa: two natural rock pools create an almost perfect heart shape from above. The left ‘ventricle’ offers shallow warm water, while the right one is slightly cooler with shoulder-height swimming. If you add a dip in the ocean, you’ve got a three-part hydrotherapy experience at your doorstep.
After swimming, it’s a short walk back to Dune Rose, welcomed by a hot outdoor shower to wash off seawater and sand. On the deck, the warmth of the fire is paired with champagne on ice. The peace offered by the villa is a reminder that rest is not a luxury, but a necessity for the soul.
Gonana Houses, Paternoster
Big celebrations aside, it was time for something more intimate. My partner and I followed the coast an hour further north, with the GPS set for the picturesque fisherman’s village of Paternoster. I’d been eager to try one of the Gonana twin, white-washed houses. Sharing a property, Aloe is the one-bedroom option, and my favourite is the two-bedroomed Acacia House. They are two of the accommodations offered by the Gonana Collection.
Upstairs, a large open-plan area leads to a balcony, offering a braai and prime sunset views. Two bedrooms continue the minimalistic and earthy theme downstairs, plus a veranda and outdoor shower. Aloe and Acacia are just a two-minute walk from the beach and the Gonana Guesthouse, where you can enjoy a cooked breakfast, a drink on the oceanfront veranda, or a refreshing dip in the pool.
Less than a five-minute walk from Acacia to several enticing Paternoster activities. Get oriented with a cycle through the village and then on the beach with the exhilarating Wow Ebikes Tours, led by passionate local guides. Still staying active, explore the bays with Paternoster Kayak and encounter some local marine life, including penguins, dolphins, whales, and more.
Tutored tastings, twenty-four wines by the glass, a range of bottles on the shelf, and tempting platters—this all served up in the classy Paternoster Wine Lounge. Finish off with a hearty meal at Leto, where the views and décor are as wondrous as the food.
Back at Acacia House, it’s a warm outdoor shower before enjoying a braai-side drink while the sun slowly sinks, painting the sky in every shade of yellow, orange, and red. The weskus beskus magic – and one of the reasons why, despite a thousand places to celebrate my birthday, I return like a pilgrim, happily, year after year.
