We’ve made it through the year, so it’s finally time to take advantage of the summer weather for that well-deserved break. Travel journalist Jared Ruttenberg shares three of his favourites – an urban resort in Cape Town, a beachside newcomer in Shaka’s Rock, and a mountainous escape in the Cederberg.
One&Only, Cape Town
With unparalleled views of the Waterfront and Table Mountain, One&Only is perhaps the Mother City’s most desirable location. The impressive resort hardly needs an introduction. On a recent visit, I was able to peep behind the curtains at what it’s like to stay at the luxury resort.
The gorgeously appointed mountain-facing suites are where you want to stay, especially with their balconies drink deeply in the iconic Mother City views. A recent refurb means the rooms feel fabulous and fresh, particularly with the locally inspired artwork.
Among One&Only’s various dining options, a meal at Nobu sits at the pinnacle. My visit happily coincided with Chef Hervé Courtot’s visit – he holds the title of Corporate Head Chef at Nobu Hotels – looking after the group’s almost 50 restaurants. Working my way through the Chef’s six-course Omakase menu is a Japanese-inspired fine dining journey of note.
A One&Only ritual is sitting in the Vista Lounge – appropriately named after its front-row seat to the Cape Town views – and sampling the four new signature cocktails. Following the tale of the Four Watchers, a Xhosa legend that speaks into Table Mountain’s birth, the new drinks Sun, Earth, Fire and Wind are tributes to the Gods in the story.
Crossing the canal from the resort lobby, you enter the island where the pool, rooms, suites, and spa are situated. Friends have raved about the One&Only Spa, and I discovered why: it is nothing short of a haven of peace and calm. Try the two-hour Mountain Tonic treatment, followed by some relaxation in the aroma-steam room, sauna, and thermal suite.
I’ve always thought that One&Only might be too big for me. After three days, I realised that there’s an urban sanctuary waiting to welcome you beyond the grand entrance, along with a surprising homeliness and personable service.
Sala Beach House, KwaZulu-Natal
The opening of Sala Beach House comes at a poignant time when KZN needs support. The recent riots and devastating storms have left their mark, but despite this, a brand new five-star hotel is gently making waves atop Shaka’s Rock with unspoilt ocean views.
Sala Beach House is too intimate a space to be called a hotel. Picture barefoot elegance and gown-wearing homeliness. With the lush vegetation and zen-like styling, you could easily be mistaken for thinking this was a tropical destination.
The property was purchased in 2017 and extensively renovated. Thanks to the exciting vision and discerning touches of co-owners Craig and Gert, Sala is undeniably a decor feast. Walking around, you’re embraced with a distinctly Durban scene but with bits of Bali and hints of Havana. If you’re anything like me, you’ll spend hours admiring, touching, smelling, and with all the tempting cuisine – most certainly tasting.
With only seven rooms and a separate three-bedroom villa. Small enough to rent exclusively. Within a day of observing my preferences, the team automatically shifted their service accordingly; my favourite wine was poured each time, and activities were based on my interests.
Sala enjoys direct beach access onto the blue flag Thompson’s Bay – and a short walk from the famed hole-in-the-wall. I wouldn’t be surprised if Sala, where peace and privacy have the final say, soon becomes one of the country’s most talked about boutique hotels.
Doringbos Farm, Cederberg
In one of Cederberg’s northernmost parts is a property that sets the benchmark for isolation and eclectic elegance. Doringbos is a vast farm set in the transition zone where the rugged 500-million-year-old mountains begin to give way to the wild expanse of the Karoo.
Exploring the property is a never-ending visual feast: every corner, cupboard and wall is filled with wonders – best come endowed with a generous sense of curiosity as you encounter a playfulness that almost touches on absurdism at times. The accommodation cottages are arranged around the central farmhouse, each grand in its own way. Mine sported dark textures and tones, replete with Coco Chanel fragrances.
There is, of course, no shortage of sunshine, and when you need respite from the heat, there are three pools to cool down in and two wood-fired tubs for cooler evenings. The Doringbos River is perianal, also offering swimming and paddling year-round.
There’s plenty to do in the wild landscape when you’re not relaxing in the glorious silence and solitude. Quad bikes provide the opportunity to explore the farm’s backroads, fishing rods are available for the river, several mountain bikes, horses for riding, two pools for cooling down – and an additional two wood-fired hot tubs. Even with a total capacity of 20 guests, there’s enough space for everyone.
The farm’s vlei pan is a short walk from the main house, where you can watch the resident wild game arrive for a sunset drink. There is even a luxurious tent set up on the vlei. In this wild setting with fires roaring at sunset, we created our own little Doringbos Burning Man; the distant Oryx finding our eccentricity somewhat amusing.
It’s a place where, after four days of acclimatising, you’ll still be in disbelief that a place so unique exists. But perhaps these spaces make for the best escapes that transport us to a completely different world.